Beer reviews: Salt Flats Barrel-Aged Scotch Ale and Templin Family Neon Rodeo | Drink | Salt Lake City Weekly

Beer reviews: Salt Flats Barrel-Aged Scotch Ale and Templin Family Neon Rodeo 

Huge flavors born of different techniques

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MIKE RIEDEL
  • Mike Riedel

Salt Flats - Open Road Series (Barrel-Aged Scotch Ale): One of the nice things about having a brewery and distillery under one roof is the ability to infuse the two libations in a relatively short amount of time. For this barrel-aged project, the brewers were able to take possession of the whiskey barrels instantly after they were emptied of their bourbon. The result is a fresh infusion of flavors from barrels that require no rehabilitation from being in dry storage.

This Scotch ale pours a virtually clear, deep crimson color with foam that appears to be dissolving as it's poured into the provided stemware. The initial aromas are more from the base beer than the barrel aging—dark fruits (prune), brown bread—but hints of vanilla and spicy booze soon emerge. Even as the glass becomes barely cool to the touch, the aromas don't intensify much.

Though not aggressive, the char and booze of the barrel leap out right away on the taste, with the caramel malts rushing up behind to push everything through the finish. The delicate essence of dark fruit and an almost vanilla sweetness dances in the aftertaste. Flavors balance out over a few sips, though the malty underbelly remains for a while. Some cookie and caramel slowly poke through, but there is no edge, no warts to this at all. At 9.8 percent ABV, it's very clean with a subtly smooth viscosity, and a latent swell of restrained warmth in the finish.

Verdict: A textbook take on a Scotch ale. The barrel aging adds enough bourbon flavor without dominating the whole beer.

Templin Family - Neon Rodeo: This collaboration between TF and Neon Rodeo (a creative conference that celebrates music, art and culture) is a "modern-style" IPA brewed with pilsner malt, corn, rice and a new (to me) hop called Pacific Sunrise out of New Zealand.

This golden IPA looks to be unfiltered—mostly clear with a sizable, puffy head that hangs on for days. Hops are brilliant insofar as they can impersonate all sorts of aromas/flavors like citrus, flowers, herbs and tropical fruits, but when it comes to New Zealand hops, I want to smell and taste those spicy, diesel-y, melon-and-earthy notes. This aroma delivers exactly that unapologetic pungency.

The aroma and flavor both pop, as hints of melon, wet grass, pine forest and shreds of bitter citrus pith hit first. It's everything a hop-head craves, without being too flashy or over-the-top about it. And that sticky, diesel-y, slightly tropical taste plays to the lightly corny/malt sweetness that accompanies it. The 6.3 percent ABV is by no means excessive, nor is this a big, intimidating beer despite the overwhelming expressions from the Pacific Sunrise hops. It drinks effortlessly.

Verdict: TF Brewing is so consistent, it's almost boring as a reviewer. Pretty much every beer they put their name to has been solid; you won't find a more reliable option, and their hoppy beers are especially bulletproof.

Some people may find these New Zealand hops difficult to wrap their taste buds around. The "diesel" flavor to which I often refer does in fact come across that way, and it also pushes out a fleshy melon flavor and aroma. I'm curious to hear what others think of them.

You can find Neon Rodeo at TF to enjoy at the brewery or to take home. Barrel-Aged Scotch Ale comes in a practical 12-ounce can. I find high alcohol beers benefit the drinker more when they're offered in a smaller package like this. Look for it at Salt Flats Brewing, both Garage Grill locations and beer pubs around the Wasatch Front and Back.

As always, cheers!

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About The Author

Mike Riedel

Mike Riedel

Bio:
Local boy and pilot of City Weekly’s best gig, The Beer Nerd column since 2017. Current photojournalist at KSTU TV (Fox 13) and host of the Utah Beer Blog and Beer Nerd Radio on KUAA 99.9 FM radio.

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