Restaurant Roundup: Signature Dishes | Restaurant Reviews | Salt Lake City Weekly

Restaurant Roundup: Signature Dishes 

How small menus create big flavor.

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Fish On - ALEX SPRINGER
  • Alex Springer
  • Fish On

There is a certain level of boldness that goes into basing an entire restaurant around one dish, and it's a surefire way to get me to pay a visit. There's something terribly attractive about a restaurant that only puts one or two signature items on their menu. Some of the most important innovations of our time were born from those brave enough to set creative limitations on themselves, and food is no different. When chefs decide to dedicate themselves to the perfection of one dish, you can be damn sure it's going to be the best version of that dish you can get. It's like throwing a gauntlet down and claiming true culinary supremacy over that particular item.

With that said, let's take a moment to dive into a few local spots that have the market cornered on their signature dish.

Fish On
Before about three months ago, Fish On was a mobile operation that sold beer-battered cod and salmon alongside some golden fries. They recently snagged a storefront in the Ivy Place Shopping Village and they've already started to make a splash in the neighborhood. Fish and chips is a sensible dish to build a restaurant around–this comfort food combo first popularized in the United Kingdom has been a hit for centuries. Fried fish is one of those dishes that is easy to phone in. Starting with a halfway decent cut of fish, slather it in batter and chuck it into some hot oil, it's not exactly rocket science. Ease of preparation aside, it is always possible to take a simple recipe and hone it to near perfection, which is what is happening at FishOn every day.

Their preferred fish options are Alaskan cod and salmon and you can get both if you are willing to throw down with with the Yankee ($19.95), which features both options. The beer batter makes for some stellar eating–it's light, crispy and perfectly seals in the fish's natural flavors. Give them a spritz of lemon juice, scoop up a generous dollop of tartar sauce and take a bite to let that almost-too-hot-hotness just flood your mouth with comfort food goodness. Having tried both salmon and cod, I think it's always a safe bet to go with the latter–something about the way cod flakes apart with each bite makes for a more satisfying fish and chips experience.
4700 S. 900 East, Ste. 19
385-416-8362
fishongourmet.com

Nana's Sonoran Hotdogs
The Ledezma family really did us a solid when they decided to bring the Sonoran hot dog to the Wasatch Front. This legendary, bacon-wrapped delight first made its way to the United States from Hermosillo, Mexico to Tucson, AZ where it's widely available. Now that Nana's has opened a food truck, we too can enjoy this overstuffed wonder of the street food universe. Nana's makes their dogs the same way they'd do it back home–a bacon-wrapped hot dog nestled in a specially baked, pillowy bun and then topped with everything from pinto beans to Flamin' Hot Cheetos.

You'd think the flavor of all those hardcore ingredients would just muddle their way into a general sense of beefy savoriness, but that's never the case. These hot dogs are vibrant and bright with each ingredient pulling its weight to create something familiar yet unique. You've got to follow Nana's on Instagram pronto to see where they will be doing the Lord's work next.
623-210-7320
@nanas_hotdogs

Pie Fight
Limitations are usually not your friend when running a bakery, but that hasn't stopped the team at Pie Fight from garnering success. They've taken the idea of a signature dish to the next level by creating hand pies, which are a niche within a niche in the baking world. Hand pies also don't have the cultural heft enjoyed by fish and chips, even when you consider the Pop Tart's impact on society. So what makes Pie Fight work? What makes them so proficient at their signature dish that they've become a gem within the Ninth and Ninth dining scene?

It's the crust, my friends. Yes, their fillings like blueberry lime, bourbon caramel apple and the occasional savory craziness like mac and cheese have won the affection of many local diners. But this crust is something magical. It's something that would cause pastry chefs all over the world to bow their toques in reverence. It somehow retains the buttery flavor and light, crisp texture that a pie needs in order to achieve true enlightenment, but it's sturdy enough to hold on to and eat like a sandwich. I've had hand pies that land the texture only to break apart in my meaty hands, and I've had leaden hand pies that have sacrificed flavor for structural integrity, but to have both is nothing short of culinary alchemy.
937 E. 900 South
385-222-5373
thepiefight.com

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