Restaurant Review: Huckleberry Grill Reinvents Fast-Casual 

• Alex Springer

Fast-casual restaurants have come to occupy an integral part of our dining scene and I've been around the block enough times to see fast-casual takes on just about everything. What I haven't seen—that is, until I checked out Huckleberry Grill—is a fast-casual take on good, old-fashioned home-cookin'. At first, one might question the logic behind combining two seemingly disparate concepts, but after a few visits, I think they might be onto something.

The recently-opened storefront in Salt Lake City comes after Chef Eric Westover evolved his catering company into a local food truck known as the Huck Truck. Westover's take on dishes that you might find on Sunday dinner tables throughout Utah and Idaho gave his concept enough clout to open a brick-and-mortar store this year. After I spent some time scrolling through Huckleberry Grill's vibrant Instagram account, it wasn't long before I needed to see this place for myself.

Huckleberry Grill occupies an unassuming spot in the strip mall next to the downtown SLC Costco—which, fun fact, I just learned is the biggest Costco in the whole world—but once you enter, you can't help but feel whisked away to West Yellowstone. From the bigfoot memorabilia to the wood paneling, the ambiance at Huckleberry Grill serves wall-to-wall rustic vibes. Said vibes complement the hearty menu filled with myriad proteins and root veggies, all of which appear much more composed than one would expect from a fast-casual operation.

Dishes at Huckleberry Grill center around one of Chef Westover's signature proteins and two sides. The choice that best distills everything that makes Huckleberry Grill special is the huckleberry pork tenderloin ($16.49). This nicely seasoned pork tenderloin comes sliced and drizzled with a fresh huckleberry sauce, evoking a classic sweet/savory combo that works particularly well with pork tenderloin.

The whiskey peppercorn meatballs were an unexpected hit, with a sauce that really sends the meatballs to another level. I was surprised to find whole peppercorns sprinkled throughout this rich gravy. The initial concern was that they'd explode with overpowering black pepper flavor, but they lose a lot of their raw oomph through the cooking process; they add just enough perk to contrast with the smoky whiskey flavor.

Perhaps the most indulgent protein on the menu is the tri-tip ($19.49), which gets smoked and then sous vide before hitting your plate. It's extremely tender, and the port reduction ramps up the flavor of the meat with each bite. Regardless of what you order, once it's placed, it can be hard to believe the speed at which such lovely plates of food get to the table—especially since they taste every bit as good as they look.

When considering side dishes to back up your proteins, it's really tough to go wrong. My favorite side is the crispy brussels sprouts, which takes the familiar awesomeness of roasted brussels and tosses it with some chipotle honey mustard sauce and candied bacon. The honey mustard sauce is the real MVP here; it's subtle enough to let the delightful flavors of the vegetable shine through while leaving a little, sweetly acidic kiss on the back end.

Of course, you wouldn't want to pass up an opportunity to sample the Mormon classic that is funeral potatoes. Yes, Huckleberry Grill has a signature take on this icon of Utah culture, corn flakes and all. Huckleberry's funeral potatoes run more on the au gratin side of the spectrum, but they are cheesy, gooey and go well with just about anything.

Those who visit Huckleberry Grill with a particularly large appetite will want to kick things off with one (or more) of the restaurant's appetizers. At the moment, they serve a shrimp cocktail ($6.99) with jumbo tiger prawns, a plate of spicy fried cauliflower ($6.99) and buffalo stuffed mushrooms ($6.99). The stuffed mushrooms are an intriguing addition to the menu; they arrive looking a bit like eggs Benedict thanks to the hollandaise-adjacent foyot sauce. Beneath this luscious layer, you've got a mix of ground bison and pork sausage stuffed into some large button mushroom caps.

For dessert, the huckleberry chocolate mousse ($6.49) is the obvious choice. Its crown of chantilly cream sitting atop a layer of tangy huckleberry sauce and rich chocolate mousse is a delicious interpretation of the restaurant's namesake berry. The créme brûlée ($6.49) is also a tasty way to wrap up your meal if you're after something a bit on the lighter side, offering the velvety interior and crisp sugar crust that are exactly what you'd want from créme brûlée.

As I made my way through the menu at Huckleberry Grill, it became clear that Chef Westover's experience with catering and operating a food truck is on full display. He and his team know these recipes backward and forward, which is why each order comes out fast and full of flavor. Fans of fast-casual dining with a rustic twist will want to check out Huckleberry Grill ASAP.