Restaurant Review: Contento Cafe's Organic Spin on Mexican Fare 

• Alex Springer

As the food scene in Utah continues to evolve, I've seen plenty of different culinary concepts get either a plant-based or a more sustainable glow-up. Obviously, this is good for several reasons; getting a comfort-food fix from a place that knows how to blend flavor and wholesome ingredients is always a win. Recently, I had the opportunity to check out Contento Cafe, a new South Salt Lake spot that has been making waves with its considerate take on classic Mexican fare. I've always been a fan of anywhere that dedicates itself to making a great taco, and Contento Cafe's progressive take on this cuisine is top notch.

Contento Cafe's menu is entirely gluten-free, they only use avocado oil for their frying and they've got plenty of plant-based options for fans of Mexican classics. It's fitting that their current digs used to belong to our friends at Vertical Diner, one of Utah's most beloved plant-based pioneers. The Contento Cafe team has done wonders with the space—that trademark counter space is still getting plenty of love today. New diners are typically welcomed by a friendly staff member who is more than happy to extol the organic virtues of the restaurant's menu.

Whether you're after a hearty breakfast with some locally-roasted coffee or looking for a spot to enjoy some tacos with a cocktail or a cold beer, Contento has you covered. Their breakfast menu is served from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and most of their ingredients are organic (just look for the little asterisk that tells you so). The Huevos a la Mexicana ($18) and the chilaquiles ($16) are among the heartier options; the former offers a choice among grass-fed steak, organic chicken, shrimp and salmon, both of which are wild-caught. Those wanting a plant-based breakfast experience will want to check out the vegan mushroom chorizo tacos ($18), which definitely takes advantage of the earthy combo of mushrooms and achiote.

If you're after something in the later hours of the day, you've got plenty of classics to choose from. Everything from nachos ($22) to fajitas ($22) can be found on the list, each one offering the same proteins available for their breakfast dishes. As selecting the right protein is a big part of dining at Contento Cafe, my recommendations are the steak or the salmon, though plant-based diners can't go wrong with the mushroom chorizo. I am a fan of the Contento Bowl with salmon and pineapple ($24) at the moment, which delivers a nice encapsulation of everything that Contento Cafe is doing right.

The Contento Bowl offers a vibrant arrangement of black beans, red rice, queso fresco—made in-house!—pico, guacamole, pickled onions and a spicy take on esquites. The salmon and pineapple are considerately placed among this assembly of fresh and colorful ingredients, and you get a few house-made blue corn tortillas for taco-making purposes. While Contento Cafe's prices might raise a few eyebrows, the portion sizes are great, and you're getting plenty of organic produce for good measure. When it all comes together on the plate, it's spectacular.

As a street taco fan, I am always stoked to see a rosy tangle of pickled onions show up for the party. I could have used a third tortilla to help me finish off the bowl's plentiful contents, but if you're like me and order chips and guac ($13) for one, it's easy to use those crunchy tortilla chips—which are way better than they have any right to be—to mop up the rest.

Those feeling decadent when they visit will want to check out the Drunken Mussels ($32), a coastal special served only during dinner hours. Like the name implies, this dish features sauteed mussels swimming in a tequila nopal chipotle broth. It also comes with two tortillas, which are ideal for either whipping up a few tacos or soaking up some of the leftover broth. This one's a bit of a treasure; I haven't really seen anything like this around town, and it's definitely worth checking out.

Each of Contento Cafe's signature proteins can be ordered up in taco form, which I recommend for anyone who has been there enough to choose a favorite. I'm already leaning toward the salmon tacos ($24). Fish tacos are amazing, but Contento's signature blend of shredded cabbage, pineapple and avocado bring the dish into summer dining Valhalla.

Though it's a fairly new addition to our local restaurant scene, Contento Cafe already has a lot going for it. Not only is its approach to a more inclusive menu a savvy move for appreciative Utah diners, it's also something they believe in. From the tableware to the decor, you walk into Contento Cafe knowing that they're offering a unique take on classic Mexican cuisine. Their accommodating menu full of organic, gluten-free ingredients appeals to more conscientious diners, and its restaurant space and staff work hard to communicate their concept.