Beer reviews: Epic Milk Stout and Uinta East Bench
Eight degrees of alcohol separate these two light-and-boozy stouts.
By Mike Riedel @utahbeer
Epic - Milk Stout: Milk stouts get their names from the addition of lactose (milk sugars). This type of sugar is not fermentable, and lends a sweetness to the roasty stout base, providing a latte to milk chocolate flavor profile. These stouts are generally low in alcohol, but can be as big as a brewer's enthusiasm.
It pours a soft foamy head of mocha cream color over a near-black body; retention is very good and lacing is light and streaked. The roasted malt aroma comes forward first, generating notes of earth and delicate fruit with lesser characters of a malt body, light caramel and milk chocolate with a touch of lactose sweetness for some cream and sugar. Potency is modest.
The roasted malt is more forward in the flavor, with lightly toasted caramel bread, cocoa and soft lactose for a modest coffee-like profile, finishing with an earthy bitterness of light hops. Subtle notes of fruit account for significant enough balance to maintain interest.
The depth of flavor may resemble more of a cup of black coffee over a brewed latte, but the balance comes forth better at warmer temperatures, cutting through some of the bitter edge. The texture is slightly chewy, silky, clean and mildly dry. Carbonation is mellow, generating a medium frothiness and a very soft crisp finish for a creamy mouthfeel overall. The body is medium for the style, while the balance is nearly even between earthy, bitter and sweet, although roastiness slightly wins out. The 5.0 percent alcohol presence is mild, and there are no notable off-characters.
Verdict: If you're not a fan of milk stouts, this one may appeal to you. Compared to beers like Left Hands Milk Stout, you'll find Epic's take on the style to be much less sweet, which increases its overall drinkability.
Uinta - East Bench: This whiskey barrel-aged stout pours a thin-looking, deep brown that rests pitch black in the glass, with zero light penetration. A finger of foamy chocolate milk-colored head rests atop, eventually fizzling out to a collar. Nose is rich and fudgy—chocolate malt, vanilla, big barrel presence of rye and bourbon with that big, beautiful dark fruit aroma that you get from barrel-aged imperial stouts. The aroma wraps with notes of currant and boysenberry.
The palate greets you with an immediate dark chocolate/fudge flavor—moderately sweet, with a balanced touch of roast. The barrel treatment is immediately evident and delightfully forward, with all of the vanilla/bourbon/oaky/char/spice notes that a bourbon barrel should relay. While the barrel characteristics are still dancing over the palate, all those juicy, deep, dark fruit notes that the nose hinted at—prune, currant, boysenberry and plum—come to the surface and become a fulfilled promise. Mouthfeel is slightly thick and viscous, enough to where one needn't complain about lack of body. The 13.0 percent alcohol isn't too hot or boozy.
Verdict: Quite pleasant. I've had many bourbon barrel stouts, and fairly often I'm left disappointed. East Bench has everything you could possibly want. It lacks the serious "wow" factor and complexity that some pastry stouts have, but it's still nothing to scoff at. This is a seriously great BA Imperial stout and it deserves high regard.
As of right now, East Bench is a one-and-done, so if you're into this type of beer, I'd pull the trigger on this one sooner rather than later. Epic's Milk Stout is on permanent rotation and should be widely available in the state's grocery and convenience stores.
As always, cheers!
About The Author
Mike Riedel
Local boy and pilot of City Weekly’s best gig, The Beer Nerd column since 2017. Current photojournalist at KSTU TV (Fox 13) and host of the Utah Beer Blog and Beer Nerd Radio on KUAA 99.9 FM radio.
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