FLASHBACK 1990: The times change, but not Gepetto's pizza parlor 

click to enlarge

In commemoration of City Weekly's 40th anniversary, we are digging into our archives to celebrate. Each week, we FLASHBACK to a story or column from our past in honor of four decades of local alt-journalism. Whether the names and issues are familiar or new, we are grateful to have this unique newspaper to contain them all.

Title: Gepetto's: Ultimate Anniversary
Author: Woody Gonzales
Date: Aug. 14, 1990

click to enlarge

What began as a pie-in-the-sky dream for John Sinclair has made him, the owner of Gepetto's Restaurants, quite the authority on pizza. August 15 marks the 20-year anniversary of the opening of the original Gepetto's in Holladay. By now, it's safe to say that Sinclair understands the "doughs" and don'ts of pizza finery.

In 1970, both the 25-year-old and a partner plunked down $5,000 and bought the Pizza Garden from Gus Petrakis. After just one week they were averaging the princely sum of $6.00 per day, and both were fortunately supported by day jobs. "I had never even been inside until we made the offer," remembers Sinclair, "and the first improvements we made were to put up the front and the arched windows. Our best night that first year was $100.00 in sales."

But Sinclair had that dream. He wanted to create a new concept in "pizza parlors" and the restaurant began to evolve in the directions of his dream. Gepetto's was gradually making a name for itself, but not much money, and Sinclair and partner both realized there was only room for one owner/manager. After what was basically a coin-flip, Sinclair lost and his partner won. The next day, his partner reported that it was "his wife or the business" and Sinclair became sole owner. He was so happy he cried.

By the early '70s, Gepetto's was regarded as a hip hangout for high-school students—besides the pizza, beer, and the unique bank vault eating area, many kids were attracted to that ancient rage, foosball, and Sinclair had a set-up for them downstairs. In 1973, Sinclair launched what has become the Gepetto's hallmark: live acoustic music. His first acts included Dave Hardy, Curt Stirlin, Steve Whitt, and Andy Monaco. In time, many of Utah's best performers would get their initial gigs at Gepetto's.

"I wanted a place to show my friends," Sinclair says. His friends like what they ate, saw, and heard.

Call it heady ambition or what, the Gepetto's concept began to grow. When a lessor called Sinclair, in 1975, informing him that a building was available near the University, he jumped at the opportunity. Within a month his volume doubled, and best, Salt Lake had one more room for live acoustic musicians.

In 1976, Sinclair got an award from the local musicians' union in recognition of his support of musical acts. Indeed, while most clubs or eateries were going rock, top-40, or disco, Sinclair was busy going the opposite direction, almost single-handedly creating a whole new local phenomenon. It paid off, too. Weekends were packed, lunches caught on, and he started showing ski movies. "We didn't want a Pizza Hut, that plastic look. We had waiters and waitresses."

As Sinclair recalls, he was "living the dream." Another store followed in 1977 on State Street, replete with search lights and a union-scale, 3-piece jazz combo. In 1978, Big Cottonwood Canyon got a Gepetto's, too—this time with a 9-piece jazz ensemble. A circuit was developed for the musicians and the possibilities seemed endless.

Then, crunch time.

The parking lot was too small at the State Street store and as it turned out, although there were lots of cars on State, not enough of them carried hungry passengers. Big Cottonwood had its share of problems, too. Both stores would shortly close ("State Street was our mistake, but Big Cottonwood is a thorn in our side") and it was "back to the basics" for Sinclair.

Basics meant selling pizza.

The recipes first given to Sinclair by Gus Petrakis have been enhanced and experimented with by Sinclair and his wife Debbie to the point that Gepetto's sells what he and customers describe as "classic" or "gourmet" pizza. "Everything we use is fresh; nothing from cans. And we don't have a salad bar," Sinclair notes, another reference to the avoidance of the plastic look.

His big seller is the "Ultimate," a huge pie with the "works" that he created in the early '70s. One can only guess at how many first-dates were all but consummated thanks to the generous and very impressive "Ultimate." As dining styles changed and customers aged into the healthy '80s, Sinclair changed, too, adding vegetarian and Hawaiian pizzas, and formerly unheard of toppings like slivered almonds, jalapeno peppers, and shrimp.

The Gepetto's menus now also include fresh, made-on-premises pastas, and the always-popular Gepetto's salads, especially the Chef Salad, have become even more so.

click to enlarge

As the years passed, Sinclair's dream never diminished. "I wouldn't trade our style for any other pizza business in town; we've been through it all," he says.

And through it all, his customers keep coming back—many with their kids. It isn't unusual these days for an adult to crane his neck downstairs to where he once played foosball, or for a couple to nostalgically dig in behind pizza, salad, and beer, while listening to the sounds of today's acoustic musicians.

And the nostalgia hits them right on the proboscis every time—Gepetto's is still as aromatic as they come. Times change, but not Gepetto's.

"Oh, I've mellowed," Sinclair says, "but all I ever really wanted was a classic place."

He's got it.