Dining Guide 2023
Lessons Learned
By Alex Springer @captainspringer, Aimee L. Cook, Thomas Crone and Erin Moore @errrands_Page 2 of 6
New Salt Lake eateries find room to grow in commissary-style ghost kitchens
Putting the ComCom in Community
By Alex Springer
Even in the salad years that preceded 2020, the need for flexibility for those in the hospitality industry was increasing. Sure, online ordering and takeout spiked hard during the early stages of the COVID-19 pandemic, but online storefronts and social media presences provided economical and versatile solutions to food-based entrepreneurs who needed the agility that brick-and-mortar locations didn't always provide.
We saw plenty of new businesses pop up, and those who needed industrial-powered resources without all the costly overhead that typically goes with it sought out commissary kitchens like ComCom Kitchen, Square Kitchen and SLC Commissary.
Though Salt Lake has had a number of commissary kitchens in operation during the past few years, the cataclysmic shift in our dining culture coupled with rising ingredients costs saw more local chefs, bakers and entrepreneurs turn to the commissary kitchen or "ghost kitchen" model. Essentially, these are spots that provide kitchen space, appliances and the occasional storefront to those seeking to grow their culinary concept into a business.
Danny Cheng, who owns and operates ComCom Kitchen (67 W. 1700 South, SLC, 801-694-2390, comcomkitchen.com) along with three other commissary kitchen spaces along the Wasatch Front, became interested in the concept as a way to get his parents back into the restaurant world. "I came across these commissary kitchens on the East and West coasts and thought my mom could make her dumplings or something like that," he said. "When I did some research on the ghost kitchen model, I realized that I didn't see a commissary kitchen concept in Salt Lake that was doing what I wanted to do."
Cheng used the concept for a few brands of his own—like Ghost Sushi and Wow Bao—until he had the forward momentum to create ComCom Kitchen. Now, his commissary spaces are home to some seriously good local eats such as Forty Three Bakery, Nur Kitchen and Kiss My Boba, to name a few.
This writer recalls in mid-2020, whenever I saw an interesting pickup-only dining concept, they were usually operating out of ComCom Kitchen. I have this space to thank for giving Mad Dough (maddoughslc.com) the resources to mass produce their cream-filled "doughnies," and Andrew Corrao's Forty Three Bakery is easily one of my Top 5 local bakeries.
As Cheng and I continued our conversation, it becomes clear that commissary kitchens are one of the best resources for restaurants or bakeries that want to set their own terms. Though that concept is evergreen in the eyes of a business owner, the past few years really hammered a sense of adaptability and independence in those who didn't have the capital to invest into a restaurant space.
For those whose culinary business is more of a side hustle, or those who are trying to generate the amount of income needed to open their own space, a commissary kitchen provides a lot to work with. "I feel like fine dining is the onlway brick-and-mortar stores will survive," Cheng says. "The amount you put into a brick-and-mortar isn't usually worth what you're getting out of it."
Though a the goal of operating a storefront or restaurant space of their own is often one of the motivators for those using commissary kitchens, having some stepping stones to get there is often better than taking one giant leap. "Expenses are lower, employee costs are lower and your peace of mind from not having to worry about how someone else is managing your business is priceless," Cheng says.
Even as we've started to ease back into going out to drink and dine, there's no doubt that commissary kitchens will be a valuable resource for our local food scene. I will always like the experience of visiting a restaurant and soaking in the vibe of the place, but I also appreciate tasty takeout that supports local business—and I don't think I am alone in that. Just like those who work in the food business, consumers' expectations have undergone a major shift, and a big part of that shift is having both dine-in and takeout options.
What these Utah-based commissary kitchens will look like in the near future is anyone's guess—there are similar concepts in coastal cities that house dozens of startup food concepts; local restaurants are starting to rent out their own kitchens to other takeout-only businesses.
As for Cheng and his commissary kitchen business, his plans are to keep expanding. "We're finally going to open our food truck park at 894 E. 3900 South in Millcreek," Cheng says. "I have a kitchen there, and in front of that is the food truck park." Based on the community-focused nature of the vendors using ComCom Kitchen, it appears Cheng's approach has helped foster the creativity of several like-minded business owners in need of flexibility. "These places are here for when you need to open or close or when you need to scale up or down," Cheng says.
Whether you're simply looking for a way to earn a little extra cash or setting your feet on the path toward owning your own restaurant, our local commissary kitchens are a great place to get started.
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