Stick 'Em Up | Dining | Salt Lake City Weekly

Stick 'Em Up 

Bonnie & Clyde's is on a sandwich spree in downtown SLC.

Pin It

I've seen the speakeasy concept pop up a few times during my trips around the Wasatch Front, but it's typically reserved for the nightspots around town. That's all good and well, but who says a bit of stylized, prohibition-era nostalgia need only be reserved for the nighttime crowd?

If you've ever pondered this question, then you'll want to check out the recently opened Bonnie & Clyde's. It's a full-service coffee shop, bakery and deli that pulls a lot of inspiration from the era in which the doomed couple was at the height of their infamy.

According to the restaurant's website, the name refers back to a time before fast-food chains and customer loyalty programs, when a neighborhood coffee shop was simply a spot to kick off our collective workday. Sure, there's a bit of edge that comes from taking a name from the historical bank-robbing couple, but I think it works for Bonnie & Clyde's. Today's collective workday has us romanticizing stickin' it to the man more than ever, so grabbing eats at a spot named for a couple of lawbreakers matches that energy.

Of course, this is not to say the climate and service at Bonnie & Clyde's is anything but amenable; this place is pretty adorable on the inside. Immediately to the right of the entrance is a rustic bookshelf, stuffed with antiques and concealing a door that leads further into the restaurant—just don't mess with it right now, as things are still under construction. The antique-chic decor blends pretty seamlessly with the modern wall art and table settings, and I loved watching a muted Western flick while a playlist of early 2000s alt-rock blasted out of the speakers.

Dining at Bonnie & Clyde's presents a lot of the options you'd expect from a sandwich-and-pastry kind of joint. They do manage to stand out from the crowd by offering breakfast sandos all day, and by offering extended hours; they close at 8 p.m. every day except Sunday. I get that sandwiches have been pigeonholed into being something you can only eat at lunch, but there's something to be said of getting a sandwich like The Philly ($15) right around dinner time.

As you might guess, The Philly is Bonnie & Clyde's rendition of a cheesesteak sandwich, and it's got plenty going for it. The first thing I noticed—and you'll notice this with every sandwich you get here—is the quality of the bread. The Italian hoagie roll that comes with The Philly, for example, is an exceptional specimen. It's hefty enough to hold all that chopped sirloin, gooey melted gruyere, sauteed onions and peppers, but it still yields nicely to each bite.

The innards of this sandwich work well to create a cheesesteak vibe, though the sirloin is a bit more akin to birria than the typical sliced-and-grilled method. That's not really a gripe by any stretch—I'll take birria on a cheesesteak sandwich any day of the week—but it might help to call this out for those expecting something a bit more traditional. I'd also like to take a moment to plug the fries ($5) at Bonnie & Clyde's. I ordered them for my daughter who had been craving fries all day, and when they arrived, I was a little taken aback by how good they were: perfectly cooked, tossed with just the right amount of salt and black pepper. I'd have to recommend you snag an order with your meal. They also come in Cajun ($5.50) or parmesan ($6) variations for the discerning fry fan.

On the cold sandwich front, your best bet is the Club House Massacre ($13.50). Not only does this sandwich boast perhaps the coolest sandwich name in the history of deli menus, it's also an unapologetic take on those dainty toasted triangles that usually come to mind when talking club sandwiches. It's got a generous helping of shaved turkey that is dressed up with some butter lettuce, tomato, Swiss cheese and juniper dijon mustard, but that stack of candied bacon on top is what puts this sandwich over the edge. Stuffed between two thick slices of toasted sourdough, each bite of this sandwich is a delight.

For breakfast, The Becky ($8.99) is my current favorite. It's simple—two eggs, lots of bacon and melty havarti cheese served on a toasty kaiser roll—but it's also a banger of a way to start your morning. I'd also recommend snagging a bagel and shmear ($5.50) as something quick and tasty if you're in a hurry. Of course, the entire pastry menu at Bonnie & Clyde's is a good bet for any diners on the go; their cronuts ($4.50) are great from both a flavor and texture standpoint.

Its location right on 600 South and Main Street makes Bonnie & Clyde's an ideal spot for diners on the run or those looking for a more leisurely lunch. Based on my experiences here, there's not a bad option regardless of which category in which you find yourself.

Pin It


More by Alex Springer

© 2024 Salt Lake City Weekly

Website powered by Foundation