Restaurant Review: Signature Fish and Chips at Ty's 

• Alex Springer

I've noticed that society has slowly started to banish the term "guilty pleasure" over the past few years, and I think that's a net gain. Life is a big enough pain in the ass without having to somehow rationalize the things that bring us joy on this bumpy ride.

This is why I love to see professional, accomplished chefs like Chef Ty Hoang investing in the casual seafood concept Ty Fish and Chips. If you've ever wondered what a sushi chef's take on this deep-fried classic would be like, you're in luck.

Followers of our local food scene will likely recognize Chef Hoang from his work as co-founder of Chopfuku, the Taylorsville sushi restaurant that has no shortage of local and national accolades. A sushi chef for over 20 years, Chef Hoang brings a wealth of experience to the humble yet universally adored concept of fish and chips. While I'm sure the comparison of sushi and deep-fried fish might garner an eyeroll or two from the foodie snobs among us, the core magic of both dishes comes from letting the ingredients speak for themselves. When done with the level of care that Chef Hoang provides, a golden-brown slab of fried fish has plenty to say.

Ty Fish and Chips is a fairly recent addition to the Sandy Village Shopping Center, and its corner shop location has been renovated into a casual, welcoming space. As one might guess from the restaurant's name, the menu is built around fish and chips, the classic one-two punch of deep-fried decadence. There are a few other notable entries within the fried seafood theme, but a visit to Ty Fish and Chips should include their signature dish.

It comes in a two-piece ($11) or three-piece ($14) box with a heap of fries that get dressed with one of three different sauce combos. One of the great things about fish and chips is you can deep fry any piece of whitefish and it usually comes out okay. Chef Hoang has brought his affection for red snapper to his menu, and it really lends itself to the frying process. It's hearty enough to hold up under Hoang's generous coating of batter, and juicy enough to provide excellent contrast between the crispy exterior and the luscious interior.

As delightful as that fried red snapper is on its own, don't miss the opportunity to snag a few dipping sauces during your visit. The Ty Signature Tartar sauce is excellent for traditionalists—super-creamy, with just enough acid to cut through the savory richness. The mango curry is great for those who like a bit of sweetness in their condiments, and the honey wasabi is ideal for those after a little kick. The miso garlic sauce is the dark horse of this group; I liked it, but it's rolling with some strong flavors that might throw the unprepared for a loop.

I feel like most iterations of fish and chips treat the fries as just something to take up space in the basket of fish, but that's not the case here. These are of the steak-fries variety, and their crispy girth is an ideal complement to the wonderful fish. Like the dipping sauce you get to select, the fries can be dressed in a variety of ways, including a pickle jala garlic cream sauce, a truffle parmesan sauce or a Japanese miso-and-ketchup combo. The former two are excellent, but their aioli foundation can make them a bit heavy in an already rich basket of food. For my money, the Japanese miso and ketchup mix is the way to go, combining the excellent umami flavor of miso with a spike of sweetness from the tomato ketchup.

Once you've had the fish, you have my permission to indulge in some of the other fried seafood offerings. The fried shrimp ($12) are plump and juicy, the crab balls ($7) reimagine the crab rangoon as arancini, and the seafood eggroll ($7) packs fresh chopped shrimp and calamari in a bite-sized package. All of these options are great, but it's really all about the fish here at Ty's. I'm hoping they offer a combo of sorts in the future; I could see going for a box that had a couple crab balls along with some signature fish and fries.

Wherever your journey takes you at Ty Fish and Chips, you may notice along the way that they also offer a side of modestly-priced coleslaw ($1.50). During my first visit, I thought the inclusion was a little strange; I just haven't seen slaw served with fish and chips before. The cashier suggested it, so I snagged some—and let me tell you, this unassuming side dish is the ultimate supporting character. It's on the more acidic side of the slaw spectrum, but that sharp flavor and crunchy cabbage is a spectacular complement to the many fried menu options.

Whether receiving unexpectedly considerate service or trying stellar flavor combos, each of my visits to Ty Fish and Chips has been punctuated with pleasant surprises. If fish and chips has ever occupied a soft spot in your heart, you'll want to check this place out.