New foeder beers from Templin Family and SaltFire 

• Mike Riedel

A foeder (pronounced "food-er") is a large oak barrel used to ferment and age beer, wine, cider and even mead. Foeders are generally at least three times the size of an average oak barrel—or around 160 gallons—and are used all over the world to ferment both clean and funky beer.

Only three Utah breweries have utilized foeders in their beer production: Epic, Saltfire and The Templin Family Brewery. Epic recently mothballed their foeder program when they closed their Denver brewery earlier this year. This just leaves SaltFire and TF as the only two with the oak fermenters. Last week, the above-mentioned breweries each released a new, funky foeder beer, and they couldn't be more different.

Templin Family - Circus Series Foeder Aged Yuzu and Budah's Hands: This foeder beer utilizes 12 different Brettanomyces yeast strains, and is one of the more approachable Brett beers I've had in some time. It's presented in a clear bottle; there are no hops happening in this ale to skunk it up. Its unfiltered burnt orange color carries an impressive sunset glow with a low-lying skirt of froth to frame the rim. Fruit stand freshness inhabits the aroma—which is cool, considering it's been aging for quite a while.

There's a radiant sweetness of Asian citrus that jumps out with a tangy, acidic, sweet, candied, winey and peppery fragrance; some ocean spray rounds out the nose. Its sweet taste is equal parts malt, fruit and yeast. White wine, doughy and savory citrus carry a light weight onto the early palate. As the middle palate unfolds, its sweetness rapidly retreats, and the beer's sour and fruit-forward taste begins to take over. Light peach flavor becomes that of macerated, stewed orchard fruit, with yuzu, Buddha's Hands, lemon and light marmalade. As the tame sourness starts to rise, the beer's oaken and funky character comes to life. Cider, chardonnay and gooseberry round the finish and provide a spicy, earthy closure.

Verdict: I'm starting to think that everything I get from Templin is going to be great. This 7.5 percent beer was more balanced and a touch better drinking experience compared to similar beers coming out of places like Casey Brewing and The Bruery. Perfectly flavored and balanced for this time of year.

SaltFire - Mobius Trip (Brett Saison): The first beer from Foeder #2 (yes, they have two foeders) is dosed with saison. It pours an amber-tinged yellow with just the slightest orange hues, giving it a depth of color—not terribly hazy, but also not completely translucent. A wonderful aroma of stone fruit is accentuated by underlying acidity and brightness from the Brettanomyces. The saison yeast from the previous fermentation is front and center, even though it's been several months since going into the foeder.

The flavor very much follows the aroma here, with the funky stonefruit-like flavors leading the way. Providing support is a nice lemony, citric tartness that is enough to counterbalance the sweetness of the malt. Hiding in the background are more complex flavors evoking the funkiness and a woody mustiness. It's medium-to-light-bodied, and the 8.0 percent ale has a moderate to light carbonation. The finish brings just enough pucker to give your cheeks that little pinch of sour.

Verdict: A nice representation of a sour saison. The phenolic yeast from the initial fermentation maintains its pepperiness, while the brett and oak provide the tannic and puckering final act.

I'd encourage any curious beer nerds to do a side-by-side with these two foeder beers. They're a great education on the diversity of what oak fermentation can accomplish. As always, cheers!