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Mystic Pizza 

Rekindle your love of the '80s—and crispy pepperoni—at Snowmobile Pizza.

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For years, I had been inwardly fuming at the commodification of 1980s nostalgia by contemporary pop culture, but I think I was just getting mad at the evergreen appeal of a period piece. It's all part of my less-than-graceful transition into fogeydom, but I am coming to grips with the simple fact that I am old enough to have artists seek to recapture the glory days that were the backdrop of my childhood and adolescence.

You know what makes an existential bombshell like that easier to process? Pizza. Luckily, my small crisis about my place in the world happened to take place during a visit to Snowmobile Pizza (877 S. 200 West, Ste. C-103, 801-317-8877, snowmobilepizza.com), where pizza is plentiful.

Snowmobile Pizza is a new venture in the Central Ninth neighborhood that only recently started to spread its wings as it came out of soft-opening mode. The eatery is owned and operated by Nice Hospitality and Chef Marc Marrone—you might know them from Hall Pass food hall at The Gateway—who specialize in creating immersive dining experiences. With their savvy meme-ification of everything from John Hughes' angsty teen dramas like The Breakfast Club to the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (natch), it's clear where the immersion is trying to take us, and it works. The space is crisscrossed with a vibrant purple and green combo that matches the Huffy Dirt Dog I used to ride to 7-11, and has multiple projection screens that play a mix of Cyndi Lauper music videos and classic films in the background.

So how is the food? It's no secret that I am a fan of pizza in all its iterations, but I can tell the difference between good good pizza and bad good pizza. Snowmobile's menu touts a foundational 72-hour fermented dough for their pies, which seems like a good place to start. Crust-wise, Snowmobile leans toward the New York-style thinness, making for a crispy yet foldable slice.

They offer cheese ($5) and pepperoni ($6) pizza by the slice, which is not a bad way to get a sense of what they're whipping up here. I've always been a pepperoni fan, and the variation at Snowmobile does the trick nicely; the pepperonis bend into little meat cups during the heating process for that ever-so-slight bit of char that I love to see on my 'ronis. The sauce is legit too—very tomato-forward instead of masking all that natural flavor with sweetness of unknown origin. The cheese blend is excellent as well, so as far as single slices of pizza go, it's hard to get a better slice for the price.

In addition to traditional round, thin-crust pies, Snowmobile offers an item called the Grandma Pie ($29) that can be made with your choice of toppings. It's very similar to the Detroit-style deep dish that has become quite popular among pizza joints at the moment, so it's perfect for those after a chonky boi to sink their teeth into.

There's nothing wrong with building your own pie at Snowmobile, but they've got some specialty pies that are worth checking out. The Sweet Pig ($29) is the current fan favorite with its mix of prosciutto, honey and arugula. It also has some of Snowmobile's homemade whipped ricotta cheese in the mix, and this stuff is killer. It adds a fresh flavor and creamy texture to anything that it happens to love up on. Currently all the pies at Snowmobile are eighteen inches, which makes that $30 price point make a bit more sense. They're good-sized pies that can easily feed five-ish people.

For those who like to go to a pizza place and get something other than pizza—you're out there somewhere, you weirdos—there are plenty of great options on the menu. Snowmobile Pizza is one of the only pizza joints that I know of where you can get arancini ($11), classic Italian snacks of crispy fried risotto mixed with melty cheese. Theirs have peas and cherry peppers added to the mix, and it works ever-so-nicely.

If you're craving something that is tailor-made to make you take a long nap after consumption, look no further than their "I Need a Hero" menu that includes two subs, the Chicken Parm ($16) and the Meatball Hero ($16). Each sandwich can easily feed two people due to the massive amounts of protein, red sauce and cheese that comes on each. Did I mention that they come with crispy crinkle-cut fries? I think the Meatball Hero edges the Chicken Parm out by a narrow margin. Their homemade meatballs are delightful, and getting a bite with all that red sauce and layers of whipped ricotta just lands you smack dab in the middle of Italian comfort-food heaven.

I can respect a place that blends style and substance to the degree that is happening at Snowmobile Pizza. I didn't really have a neighborhood pizza joint that doubled as a hangout spot growing up, but this place showed up just in time for the "recapturing my youth" phase of my midlife crisis—which is perfect timing.

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