FLASHBACK 1987: Brent Faulkner uncorks some well-aged wisdom for wine newbies.
Novice Wine Tasters Should Begin with White Varietal Wines
By Brent Faulkner
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Title: Novice Wine Tasters Should Begin with White Varietal Wines
Author: Brent Faulkner
Date: April 1987
Of all the beverages known to man, wine has to be, if not the oldest, certainly the most controversial. Attempts to define the qualities of various wines and explain their mystique has, unfortunately, in the case of many less-experienced wine consumers, produced nothing but confusion and consternation. As a result, many a would-be enthusiast is either put off or intimidated by the so-called affectations associated with the enjoyment of wine. What people do not understand, however, is that although knowledge does enhance, it is not a prerequisite to wine appreciation.
The purpose of any wine tasting exercise is to expand knowledge through increased experience; therefore, there is no substitute for tasting. I am always pleasantly amazed whenever the most inexperienced palates in my classes are able to discern quality among wines presented to them in blind tastings.
This, I believe, is possible because a group or class setting generally involves tasting several wines and affords comparison and discussion. Whereas cost and potential waste usually limit the number of wines an individual can taste in a session to one bottle only, the neophyte generally lacks the background to be able to evaluate the subtleties of quality when tasting one wine by itself. So, I always suggest tasting in groups when possible.
Blind tasting is encouraged for several reasons. We tend to favor those things we know best, and wines are no exception. By keeping the bottles in bags we eliminate all prejudices, remain uninfluenced by labels, and most importantly, we learn to develop and rely upon our own senses. I constantly remind my classes not to accept my opinions blindly, but to decide for themselves. Since critics and experts often disagree, what those people write and say should not be accepted as the ultimate judgment. What's in the glass must do the talking.
Thorough tasting notes are a necessity for every taster, and they should include the name of the winery, vintage, grape varietal, a general description as to color, aroma, and flavor, an evaluation of quality, and the date of the tasting. I find it very educational after having spent a couple of months tasting, to go back and retaste the first wines, make new tasting notes, and compare them with the original findings. This could reveal interesting changes with regard to preference and sensory evaluation.
To begin, I recommend that one start with a simple tasting of white varietals. Most inexperienced tasters have an easier time with white wines, and the goal of this exercise is to learn to recognize the different characteristics of the grape varietals. In tenths, the Kenall-Jackson '85 chardonnay ($5.35), Dry Creek '85 sauvignon blanc ($4.70), and Kenwood '85 chenin blanc ($3.35) are all excellent wines, reasonably priced, and very adequately demonstrate the different characteristics of these varietals.
An excellent supplementary aid to tasting is Michael Broadbent's book, Complete Guide to Wine Tasting and Wine Cellars, published by Simon and Schuster for $12.95. This invaluable guide contains information on how to taste wines critically, a glossary of foreign terms to help read labels of imports, and a glossary of esoteric wine vocabulary.
ED. NOTE: Brent Faulkner is a local wine consultant, educator, and enthusiast. He has traveled to and tasted wines extensively in Europe and is currently teaching courses in wine appreciation and evaluation for the Wasatch Academy of Wine. For class information call (801) 466-7943 or Sheral Schowe at (801) 268-8504.
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