Epic's Biotransformer and Uinta's Port O' Call | Drink | Salt Lake City Weekly

Epic's Biotransformer and Uinta's Port O' Call 

Unique flavor combinations in two new beers

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MIKE RIEDEL
  • Mike Riedel

Epic Biotransformer: This beer was originally born from a collaboration between Melvin Brewing and Epic. The goal was to make a "sticky-icky" beer full of cannabis-esque qualities, and it was popular enough that Epic decided to move this from a small-batch beer to a full-production release. Let's get into it.

It pours a dark amber with orange tones and some considerable hop haze across the body, with enough effervescence to produce a thick layer of dirty white suds over top. The nose is made up of some real pungent pine aromatics, backed by a blend of citrus fruit and tropical produce. This is not distinctly dank or weedy to me, but definitely coming across as resinous; it as the sticky pine presence all up in there, with a bit of sugary grapefruit. Some faint malt sweetness makes itself known, as well as a touch of alcohol strength, which is nice and sharp on the olfactory senses.

Huge pine resins dominate the taste up front, with citrus and tropics to follow, mostly some candied grapefruit and sweet mango. There is a sharp zap of bitterness mid-palate, and such a long-lasting resinous linger to this one. Again, it's not particularly dank like Mary Jane here, but damn solid hop juice, for sure. I get a bit of malty bread tucked in the back, along with a touch of caramel sweetness. They definitely hit on the sticky-icky component—bold hop flavor, sticky, and good. There's a moderate heft in the body, with ample carbonation offering up a nice creamy consistency. You get something big and bold in the bitterness, with a sharp feel and long-lasting resinous linger. It finishes out a touch dry and very, very sticky on the palate.

Verdict: I was hoping for a bit more dank here as advertised, but this one definitely delivers on the sticky. A real intense bitterness with super-fresh hop flavors and a proper malt balance allow for some good drinkability; it's a nice offering in my book, and I would have itagain.

Uinta - Port O' Call: This beer was originally released in 2015 as part of Uinta's Crooked Line Series of beers. This version of the port wine barrel-aged Belgian Dark Ale was brought back to help celebrate Uinta's 30th Anniversary.

It pours an almost opaque, dark mahogany color, with moderate amounts of visible carbonation rising along the edges of the glass and moderate dark amber highlights. The beer has a three-finger tall foamy tan head that slowly reduces to a large patch of mottled medium thick film. Moderate aromas of dark fruit (plum and currant), dark malts and sweet caramel pop up, with light to moderate aromas of port wine and oak. These are followed by light aromas of Belgian yeast with a hint of banana and clove.

Upfront, there is a slightly stronger than moderate flavor of dark malts, with a moderate amount of dark fruit (plum and currant) and caramel sweetness. Moderate to strong flavors of sweet port wine and vinous notes combine with light-to-moderate flavors of Belgian yeast, with just a hint of spiciness. Light flavors of banana and clove come in towards the finish. Light to moderate amounts of bitterness fade away quickly, leaving a light sweetness lingering. It's medium-to-full-bodied, with moderate amounts of gentle carbonation. Smooth, almost creamy.

Verdict: Very enjoyable, with some alcohol and sweetness but not cloying. This is easy to drink, though I would recommend slowly sipping this one. The port barrel aging really adds to this beer in a complementary fashion, and I love the creamy mouth

The first time around, Port O' Call was released in corked and caged 750ml bottles; this version is now in 16-ounce cans at Uinta. Biotransformer is also in 16-ounce cans at the brewery, however, at DABS stores you'll find it in 22-ounce bottles. As always, cheers!

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About The Author

Mike Riedel

Mike Riedel

Bio:
Local boy and pilot of City Weekly’s best gig, The Beer Nerd column since 2017. Current photojournalist at KSTU TV (Fox 13) and host of the Utah Beer Blog and Beer Nerd Radio on KUAA 99.9 FM radio.

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