Don't Rest on This Laurel 

• Alex Springer

Though I never had anything against the Garden Café when it was operating within The Grand America Hotel (555 S. Main Street), it really wasn't much of a nightspot. A hotel like The Grand America really needed something that could offer a unique experience for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner—something that would appeal to both the hip nighttime diners and the more conservative daytime crowd.

When The Garden Café closed after 20 years to make way for something new, we were all a little curious. The something new in the equation is Laurel Brasserie & Bar (801-258-6708, laurelslc.com), which officially opened in December 2021. It's a tall order to reinvigorate the dining experience at one of downtown Salt Lake City's most prestigious hotels, but Laurel is off to a great start.

The space has been tailored to Laurel's European concept. It's an expansive, welcoming space that takes full advantage of floor-to-ceiling windows, immaculate white tilework and a vibrant color scheme of pinks, teals and greens. Or, as my wife put it, "It looks like the Nancy Meyers kitchen of my dreams." I've also heard that Laurel has plans to convert some of the outside space into a patio which will fit nicely with the restaurant's European aesthetic. So yeah, it's a safe bet that Laurel won me over with its interior design—it's a beautiful addition that complements the Grand America's old-school extravagance.

After considering all that lush production design, I was both excited and nervous to try the food. I've visited many a spot that tries to win diners over with a beautiful space, only to deliver entrees braised with mediocrity. But sometimes the food becomes a proper accompaniment to the lovely space, which is what I experienced at Laurel.

My wife and I started off with the pumpkin arancini ($11) and the wild mushroom tartlet ($10), hoping for a proper introduction to the Italian and French influences being liberally applied to Laurel's menu. Though both appetizers were tasty, the pumpkin arancini were the favorite at the table. Plump, golden-brown spheres of rice and melted cheese served with some slightly spicy aioli for dipping are always going to be a winner. The pumpkin comes through very subtly, buffeted nicely by the mild flavors of the rice and fresh mozzarella cheese. The aioli offers just enough kick to keep things too subtle, however.

The concept of the tartlet worked for us—a round of buttery puff pastry crust topped with savory seasonal mushrooms, creamy labneh and curly sprigs of herbaceous frisée. The mushrooms, labneh and frisée were excellent together, though the crust was a bit on the crumbly side. All in all, the appetizer round had us on board and excited for entrees.

We liked the French/Italian combo of appetizers, so we went with the rigatoni Bolognese ($20) and the steak frites ($26). I think it's risky to get pasta at a more upscale place like Laurel, since the margin between excellent and just fine is razor thin, but I have to say that the rigatoni here was a definite win. Pasta dishes live and die by the quality of their sauce, and this Bolognese was something else. It's a devastatingly rich combo of ground beef, pork and veal that has been simmered to tender perfection. These are deep, dreamy flavors that evolve with each bite.

The steak frites consists of a skirt steak grilled with some béarnaise butter and served with a stack of crisp, salty fries—and it's incredible. It's prepared simply and carefully, which truly showcases the ingredients themselves. Laurel's menu offers a few side dishes to complement each entrée, and I'd suggest adding something like the jumbo asparagus in hollandaise sauce ($9) here if you're feeling a bit indulgent.

After navigating through some delightful appetizers and entrees, we were set on calling it quits before the dessert menu hit the table. But then our server gushed about the croissant bread pudding ($9)—so we had one to split. Despite how full we were, there were no regrets to be had as we dove into this buttery, caramelly and altogether luxurious dessert. It's the aged rum sauce that really clinches this dessert; it's got the flavor of a nice, toasted crème brulee that really sings once you combine it with the custard-like croissant pudding. Am I ashamed to say we finished the whole thing? Not at all.

I have a lot of good to say about Laurel—the space is gorgeous, the food is top-notch and the service is gracious—but the thing that I appreciated most was the prices. I figured dinner at a swank new restaurant inside a swank downtown hotel would carry a much heftier price tag. None of the entrees at Laurel will cost you more than $30, which is pretty reasonable considering the restaurant's prolific swank-itude. If you're looking for a spot to dine in style without completely wrecking your wallet, Laurel is open for business.