Caputo's By Night | Wine | Salt Lake City Weekly

Caputo's By Night 

In the Still of the Night

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After a little flirtation with the wild side, Caputo’s Market & Deli has gone back to its roots. They’ve replaced Tipica, a “nose to tail” nighttime dining venture, with Caputo’s by Night—Italian comfort food with a carefully curated wine and beer list.

Now, while Tipica’s urban/sophisticated ambiance remains (Schott Zweisel stemware, white tablecloths, candles), the menus are worlds apart. “Uncle” Mikey Caputo is manning the kitchen and turning out a full menu of tempting dishes, each made with superb ingredients and affordably priced. That’s because Caputo’s is all about sourcing. They buy in volume for their bustling market and can afford to embellish dishes with a fine extra virgin olive oil or a well-aged Parmigiano Reggiano. The best fish market in town sits right next door, and the deli is well-stocked with sausages for the hearty red sauces. With such a lovely larder, Caputo’s is able to offer a full dinner (all non-pasta entrees include a half-order of pasta, soup or salad and garlic bruschetta) and a glass of house wine for under $20.

On a recent Saturday night in a restaurant full of diners of every age and stripe—from babies to buttoned-up symphony patrons—we had a terrific time.

My dining partner was over-the-moon happy with his succulent prime rib. I loved my chicken piccata. Everything about the piquant caper-studded sauce delivered as hoped—the chicken was moist, and even the meaty green olives on the side satisfied my vinegar-salt cravings to a T. I opted for the light cacio e pepe—olive oil, pecorino cheese, garlic & black pepper on angel-hair pasta—alongside. Regulars will also be happy to know Caputo’s full deli sandwich menu is available in the evenings, too.

314 W. 300 South

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Virginia Rainey

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