Beer reviews: Salt Flats Open Road Series Barrel-aged Grand Cru and Shades Coyote Ugli 

• Mike Riedel

Salt Flats - Open Road Series (Barrel-aged Grand Cru): The term "Grand Cru" in beer parlance generally refers to beers of Belgian influence (though not always) that are stronger, richer, more intense versions of an existing beer. This beer's patient maturation in freshly-emptied Bourbon whiskey barrels from Salt Flats Spirits certainly presents it as a beer of distinction.

The Grand Cru pours a deep, brooding mahogany with ruby highlights, capped by a resilient, mocha-tinged head that laces beautifully down the glass. The aroma is an immediate invitation to indulgence. Rich vanilla, toasted oak and a distinct waft of sweet, warming Bourbon lead the charge, elegantly interwoven with the dark fruit esters characteristic of a fine Belgian Quad; think figs, raisins and a touch of brandied cherry. Subtle notes of dark caramel and a whisper of spice add further complexity.

On the palate, the Grand Cru promise is delivered. The Bourbon barrel influence isn't too assertive, yet it's harmonious, bringing layers of caramel, vanilla bean and a gentle oaky tannin that complements rather than overwhelms the base beer. The ale's inherent dark fruit sweetness, hints of toffee and dark chocolate meld seamlessly with the barrel character. Despite its formidable 9.7 percent ABV, the alcohol is remarkably well-integrated, providing a satisfying warmth that spreads through the chest without any harsh burn.

The mouthfeel is luxuriously full-bodied and velvety, with a soft carbonation that lends a creamy texture. The finish is long, complex and warming, with lingering notes of Bourbon-soaked fruit and a gentle, sweet spiciness.

Verdict: Barrel-Aged Grand Cru is a testament to what Grand Cru can signify in beer: a masterfully crafted brew that elevates a strong, complex base with thoughtful barrel-aging. This is a sipper for a special occasion, best enjoyed slowly to appreciate its intricate layers—a true locally-made gem.

Shades - Coyote Ugli: This New England-style IPA pours a beautifully turbid, glowing orange-gold, truly living up to its "hazy" designation, crowned with a soft, pillowy white head. The first approach is met with an enticingly vague yet unmistakably great citrus aroma. It's a soft, inviting cloud—less a sharp single fruit and more a delightful medley of sweet orange, tangerine and perhaps a whisper of passionfruit, promising refreshment.

The flavor delivers precisely what the aroma hints at, transforming into something akin to a sophisticated, adult version of Sunny Delight. It's a veritable citrus cocktail on the palate—juicy, bright, and bursting with notes of fresh-squeezed orange, clementine and sweeter pomelo, all driven by a generous dose of citrus-forward hops. Crucially, a well-integrated malt backbone provides a pleasant, subtle sweetness and body, ensuring the fruitiness doesn't become thin or overly acidic, while the malt adds a soft, bready counterpoint that rounds out the vibrant hop profile.

What truly elevates Coyote Ugli is its mouthfeel; it embodies the "fresh and silky" vibe perfectly, coating the palate with a smooth, almost creamy texture that is incredibly satisfying. Despite its 8.0 percent ABV, there's no boozy heat or sharpness. Instead, the alcohol lends a gentle warmth and contributes to the full, rounded body, making it dangerously drinkable.

Verdict: Coyote Ugli is a stellar example of the New England IPA style—a fresh, vibrant, and remarkably smooth citrus bomb that balances its juicy hop character with a perfectly silky texture and a well-hidden punch. A truly delightful and crushable hazy.

Shades Brewing has moved on to 16-ounce cans from 12-ounce cans, and you'll probably want every bit of that volume for this IPA. Salt Flats also presents in 16-ouncers, and is available now. Both of these are limited batches; though Coyote Ugli will make an appearance at select DABS stores, your best bets to find these are always at their respective breweries.

As always, cheers!