On the edge of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Hell’s Backbone Grill is equally humble and refined, grounded and ethereal. Championing (and then growing) organic food and serving perfectly matched wines in a remote county was an act of faith. But through a combination of goodwill and working with local ranchers and farmers, the grill not only made it, but is thriving and beloved in the community. A salad of organic greens with jicama and roasted corn in a chili-honey dressing hits all the right notes of freshness, texture and honest flavors. Skillet-fried trout encrusted with blue corn and molasses is sensational. Ditto for the chocolate-chile cream pot—it’s a case of heavenly hell.