If you’ve ever been to the little oasis called Hell's Backbone Grill on the edge of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, you find it equally humble and refined, grounded and ethereal; it’s one-of-a-kind. Though they’ve been lauded by diners from all over the world and featured in “O” and Gourmet, it hasn’t been easy. Championing (and then growing) organic food and serving perfectly matched wines in a remote county that’s not exactly keen on “Wild Utah” bumper stickers or demon alcohol was an act of faith. But through a combination of good will and working with local ranchers and farmers, they not only made it, they’re thriving and beloved in the community. A salad of organic greens with jicama and roasted corn in a chili-honey dressing hits all the right notes of freshness, texture and honest flavors. Skillet-fried trout encrusted with blue corn and molasses is sensational. Ditto for the chocolate-chile cream pot. It's a case of heavenly Hell.