Coloradoans can have their cushy backcountry hut system. Utah's cozy yurts access shred-ready terrain without unnecessary panache. The wood or propane stoves, stacked firewood, bunk beds and yurt walls keep winter camping relatively simple. Sure, it's a schlep, but waking up alpine-early to wintry mountain views and the promise of fresh tracks is more than worth the work.
Yurt permits come with detailed lists of what you'll need, but plan on hauling food, a kitchen kit, sleeping bags and pads, as well as first aid, navigation and avalanche supplies (beacon/shovel/probe/terrain-management brain). Utah's famous fluff can make for a seriously unstable snowpack, so brush up on backcountry skills and check conditions at the Utah Avalanche Center (UtahAvalancheCenter.org). These mountains don't mess around, and neither should you.
The Big Water Yurt
Lily Lake Yurt System
Five yurts comprise the Lily Lake Yurt System, making for an excellent multi-day touring adventure. The East Fork, Bear Claw and Lily Lake Yurts are 1.5, two and three mellow miles, respectively, from the North Slope Trailhead, and are surrounded by low-angle slopes perfect for snowshoeing or cross-country skiing.
It's only after the 4.5-mile ski to the Ridge Yurt or 6.5-mile trek to Boundary Creek Yurt that the downhill options really open up. The "choose your own adventure" area provides options from intermediate to advanced. Watch the steep drops from Ridge Yurt to the Bear River, as recently downed trees there need a lot of snow cover. Boundary Creek provides outstanding tree skiing with numerous clear-cut shots.
Make reservations with the Evanston Recreation Center (307-789-1770). An optional orientation is provided by the Bear River Outdoor Recreation Alliance (BRORAYurts.org).
Tushar Mountain Yurts
The Utah Nordic Alliance (UtahNordic.com) runs the Tuna Yurt, which is available to the general public around Dec. 1. Sporty 30- to 35-degree slopes surround the yurt, which is perched on a tree-lined bench, providing mellow glades for snowshoeing or touring. A covered deck offers excellent views of Beaver Creek and several ponds. Three mellow miles up Norway Flats Road from Mirror Lake Highway and 1,000 feet of elevation gain grants you access.
E-mail the Utah Nordic Alliance (email@example.com) for reservations.
Blind Hollow Yurt
Powder Ridge Yurts
Bear River Range
The Bunchgrass and Green Canyon Yurts are great for cross-country touring and intermediate riders while offering excellent expert strike missions (the steep shots off Mount Jardine and Beirdneau Peak are sure to satisfy). Though there are low-angle runs, the terrain surrounding Steam Mill Yurt is fairly full on and should be visited only by very experienced backcountry travelers.
Reserve the yurts with Powder Ridge Ski Touring (firstname.lastname@example.org, Facebook.com/PowderRidgeSkiTouring).
Dead Horse Point Yurts
Dead Horse Point State Park
For the snow-challenged, three plush yurts at Dead Horse Point offer the comforts of home plus incredible views of the Colorado River the sky-lining La Sal Mountains. Plan on hiking or mountain biking (unless an errant dump provides some quick cross-country skiing).
Call Utah State Parks for reservations (800-322-3770, DeadHorsePoint.Utah.gov).