Pickle Pie at SunGlow 

Pin It
click to enlarge art13381widea.jpg
Bicknell, Utah—population 340—is located 17 miles west of Capitol Reef National Park in south-central Utah. The SunGlow Family Restaurant & Motel, one of Bicknell’s premier overnight establishments (there are two of them) was opened in the 1960s by Cula Ekker, developer/inventor/evil genius behind the Sweet Pickle Pie.

The restaurant is the only place open for miles, and it’s a Friday night, so even though it’s empty when we arrive, we are soon surrounded: young families with kids climbing all over each other, couples in tight Wranglers, fathers and sons in camo pants and orange vests back from hunting, and a couple of LDS missionaries, whom I can’t help wondering about: What do they have to do here?

As if sweet-pickle pie were not enough, it turns out that the SunGlow is famous—or infamous—for several different unusual varieties of pies. An order of the “pie sampler” will get you half slices of oatmeal pie, buttermilk pie, the famous sweet-pickle pie and the unjustly less famous pinto-bean pie. They arrive piled high with superfluous whipped topping but otherwise look innocuous.

I go straight for the pickle. And … it’s good. It’s good! The texture is something like mince pie. The first taste I get is cinnamon and allspice, a flavor that gets stronger as I chew and then finishes off with a noticeable tang. The tang is obviously the pickle, but if I didn’t know I was eating pickles in a pie, I would never be able to guess that that is what makes the tang.

The pinto bean is less wonderful: Imagine the gelatinous filling in pecan pie, only without the pecans. The buttermilk is lemony-custardy, and it’s fine. The oatmeal pie is exactly like what you’d get if you took some leftover oatmeal and cooked it in a crust with some coconut and lots of sugar, then more sugar for good measure. My surprising advice: Stick to the pickle. 

91 E. Main

Pin It


More by Jessica Frogley

  • Peach City

    Worth a drive to Brigham
    • Jun 22, 2011
  • Boulder's Hills & Hollows

    Grocery offers natural foods, wood-fired pizza and a sense of community.
    • Mar 29, 2011
  • Maddox Family Drive-In

    Maddox isn’t so much a restaurant as an institution. You can get married here (in the “Goble Lodge”)...
    • Feb 15, 2011
  • More »

Latest in Wine

  • Sipping Fuissé

    Getting to know Pouilly-Fuissé, France's other white Burgundy
    • Nov 4, 2015
  • Zincredible

    Exploring Zinfandel, a uniquely American wine
    • Oct 14, 2015
  • Alsatian Sensations

    Getting to know the other white wines of France
    • Sep 23, 2015
  • More »


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Readers also liked…

  • PC Wine Classic Preview

    The 11th annual Food & Wine Classic returns to Park City
    • May 6, 2015
  • Sipping Fuissé

    Getting to know Pouilly-Fuissé, France's other white Burgundy
    • Nov 4, 2015

© 2016 Salt Lake City Weekly

Website powered by Foundation