Wine Wednesday: Buglioni l'Intruso

Mariano Buglioni is a talented craftsman who produces wonderful wines at his eponymous estate in San Pietro, Italy. Buglioni is passionate about winemaking, and the passion comes shining through in this excellent white wine called l'Intruso (the intruder).

Buglioni l'Intruso ($16.03) is made from 100% Garganega grapes, a varietal widely grown in the Veneto region of northeast Italy. Unfortunately, Garganega can be a high-yield grape, too often used to make thin, uninteresting wines. This, however, is not one of those. Buglioni 'Intruso has tangy acidity, making it a good wine for pairing foods with. It's brimming with tropical-fruit flavors and aromas -- pineapple, mango and kiwi -- along with white flower notes on the nose. It's an unoaked wine, fermented in stainless steel.

L'Intruso is terrific with seafood dishes. At a Buglioni wine dinner at Franck's, chef Franck Peissel paired it with crispy-skinned red snapper and seafood ravioli. I drank it recently alongside veal piccata, and that pairing was also excellent.