Chef Gao Restaurant in downtown Salt Lake City is a small Chinese restaurant, with intentionally dim lighting but a bright color palette. A most delicate dish is one called the triple crown—an abundance of plump, tender shrimp, crispy sea scallops and pieces of juicy boneless chicken breast bathed in a glistening white wine and garlic sauce with onions, snow peas, miniature corn and crunchy slices of water chestnut. The black-pepper beef is exactly as advertised: thin, tender slices of beef enveloped in a sassy sauce with a blast of ground black pepper, carrots, snow peas, red pepper and sweet onion.

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