Executive chef duo Justin Shifflett and Chris Durfee recently unveiled Metropolitan’s winter menu, and it fits the season like a warm glove. In case you didn’t know, the ever-chic restaurant serves both lunch and dinner, and there’s also a tempting menu of inexpensive “bar bites.” After sampling a few dishes, I can vouch that the new menus will warm and satisfy throughout the bone-chilling months ahead.
I hesitate to call Metro’s offerings “comfort food,” because the ingredients are high-end, the presentations beautifully composed (but not fussy) and the combinations inventive. Nonetheless, the food is definitely on the comfortable and approachable side. A case in point: a dinner entrée of a 12-ounce, perfectly seared, tender veal chop arrived with a side of sage-infused pancetta brioche pudding and a spoonful of apricot mostarda. The chefs make their own jelly-like mostarda with dried apricots, shallots, ginger, wine, mustard seed, Dijon mustard and butter. I would have liked more of it, but then, I’m greedy about condiments. Paired with a bold glass of 2006 Bodegas Hijos de Juan Gil Monastrell, that dish is a total winner.
On the lunch and dinner menus, braised goat pizza with onion marmalade will please lovers of goat (both the meat and the cheese). Ditto for wild game stew—deeply flavored with veal stock and bites of wild boar, goat and bison. Metro’s gone retro and serves it in a bread bowl. Another highlight was sweet, seared diver scallops with polenta, grilled nectarine and frisée, from the dinner menu.
For dessert, try the luscious warm fig cake with a tiny honeycomb, mascarpone and balsamic. All this is a mere sampling of the extensive Metro menus, but there’s a long winter ahead. I can’t wait to try the grilled swordfish with lemon preserve risotto and olive salad.
173 W. Broadway