citylog
The E-
Edition:
CW
page
by page

PROUDLY SUPPORTS
Buy Local FirstHumane SocietyPlanned Parenthood
SLC Arts CouncilDowntown Alliance

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Home / Articles / Food / Restaurant Reviews /  Pizzeria Toscano, Arella Pizzeria & NYPD Pizzeria
Restaurant Reviews

Pizzeria Toscano, Arella Pizzeria & NYPD Pizzeria

Pie Times Three: From Layton to Sandy, the pizza keeps on flyin’.

By Ted Scheffler
Photo by Pizzeria Toscano // John Taylor
Posted // July 2,2010 - The quest for great pizza—seemingly America’s favorite food—is never-ending. Luckily for me, pizza is also one of my favorite foods, so the required research is not exactly grunt work. After all, even mediocre pizza ain’t all that bad compared to, let’s say, mediocre sushi. So, let’s get going. 

First up: Pizzeria Toscano in Sandy, which replaced my beloved Nevole’s pizzeria. Nevole’s served classic, East Coast-style pizza in a small, friendly and funky setting. So, when I first stepped into Toscano, I couldn’t quite get my bearings; all traces of Nevole’s are gone. The new, snazzy Toscano is about four times the size of Nevole’s, complete with patio seating, a somewhat annoying, nonstop computerized piano, ultra-modern décor including a 12-foot waterwall and even a gelato bar. But, what attracted me to Toscano was the oven: specifically, a clay wood-fired pizza oven, Utah’s largest, according to the Toscano folks.

The sun-drenched Toscano “terazza” is an ideal spot for al fresco dining, and an antipasto of prosciutto-wrapped cantaloupe with a balsamic drizzle ($7.95) gets things started nicely. Although it’s not exactly a warm-weather dish, the homemade Italian meatballs with rich marinara sauce and ciabatta bread is quite good, but pricey at $7.95 for a small serving.

However, pizza is the main attraction at Toscano, and I’d had high hopes. Unfortunately, the pizzas left me wanting. On my first visit—shortly after the restaurant opened—I chalked it up to the eatery’s newness. But months later, I still found the pizza disappointing—in particular, the dough. The Margherita pizza ($10.95) would be spot-on, with simple, classic toppings of San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and basil, but the dough on each visit, though nicely charred from the wood-fired oven, was tough and chewy—too heavy and glutinous. It’s a shame, because it’s so, so close. I suggest a visit by Toscano’s pizza maker to Settebello to see how it’s done.

From the owners of Tonyburgers comes Arella Pizzeria, a new pizza place in Bountiful specializing in what they call a combination of “Brooklyn, N.Y., thin-crust pizza with that of a traditional Napoletana pizza,” all cooked up in its 700 degree wood-fired brick oven. Like Toscano, Arella is contemporary and stylish—much more Los Angeles than Brooklyn. Its name comes from the last three syllables of mozzarella—perhaps not the most creative restaurant branding I’ve come across but, hey, it works.

A pre-pizza salad of mixed spring greens with diced pears, candied pecans, shredded Fontina cheese and a poppy seed dressing ($7.99) was plentiful—easily enough for two to share—and delightful. The Margherita pizza ($9.99-$17.49), however, was Toscano’s Margherita stood on its head. Unlike Toscano, the crust at Arella is nearly perfect: thin, crisp and slightly charred. But the sauce, sadly, marred that beautiful crust. It was bitter and acidic and, although supposedly house-made, tasted canned with an unpleasant hint of garlic powder. Maybe the pizza makers from Toscano and Arella should combine forces and exchange notes. On the other hand, a white pizza ($12.99-$19.49) with Alfredo sauce, Canadian bacon, caramelized onions, artichoke hearts, pine nuts and fresh basil was much more pleasing to our crowd.

Somewhat surprisingly, my favorite pizza from this trio of pizzerias came from Layton’s new NYPD Pizzeria. I was surprised, because NYPD is the one of the three that doesn’t utilize a wood-fired pizza oven. The pizzas at NYPD are made in a classic, steel, deck oven typical of East Coast pizzerias. In addition to pizzas, NYPD features deli sandwiches, calzones, strombolis, pasta dishes, soups and salads. Although NYPD had great pizzas, the service was atrocious. I honestly don’t recall ever having worse service in a restaurant.

If you’re unlucky, you’ll be met at Layton’s NYPD Pizzeria by a gum-smacking teenager, who will be difficult to understand, thanks to the jumbo-size wad in her mouth. She’ll sit you down, give you menus and then … disappear. Well, not so much disappear. Actually, she’s a couple tables over, eating lunch (with her fingers) with a fellow employee. I couldn’t see if she removed the gum between bites; I suspect not.

After having plenty of time to peruse the menu, our NYPD gal took a break from her own lunch to get ours started. But first, she needed to know: “Is that your car?” she shouted, pointing to a cool Mustang in the parking lot. Nope, not ours. When my wife asked about the choice of soup or salad that accompanied the veggie sandwich ($6.99), our server said, “The soup is awful,” without even telling us what it was. Asked about the sandwich, she didn’t know if the veggies were grilled, the bread was grilled, if it was served hot or cold … then, she grabbed my hand, literally, pawed my wedding ring and said “How did you do that?” inquiring about the blue inlays, as though I had somehow colored them myself. Finally, she took our order and went back to eating her own lunch.

At this point, only a great pizza could save the day. Thankfully, a meatball and red onion pizza ($15.99) did just that. Virtually perfect crisp, New York-style crust topped with nicely seasoned and sliced meatballs was simply marvelous. It goes without saying that our NYPD server screwed up our bill once we finally got it. I felt like calling a New York City cop.

PIZZERIA TOSCANO
17 E. 11400 South, Sandy
801-572-5507
PizzeriaToscano.com

ARELLA PIZZERIA
535 W. 400 North, Bountiful
801-294-8800
ArellaPizzeria.com

NYPD PIZZERIA
768 W. 1425 North, Layton
801-773-6973
129 E. 1380 South, Draper
801-255-6973
NYPDPizzeria.com

CONNECT



Ted Scheffler:
Twitter
Facebook

ClubFed:
Twitter
Facebook
Sign up for ClubFed

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Post a comment
REPLY TO THIS COMMENT
Posted // May 8,2011 at 19:18 Our visit went south right from the beginning. We were seated rudely, and our menus were tossed onto a table that wasn't wiped clean. When I stopped the waiter as he was walking away, he seemed irritated that he had to get the towel to clean it off.
In the menu there was a flyer: "2 for Tuesdays" where you get a free cheese pizza with purchase of any other pizza off the menu. Printed restriction says "Equal or lesser value. Not valid with 10" or sicilian pies." It just happened to be a Tuesday, BUT when we wanted to get a 14" supreme and a 14" cheese, we were told that we HAD TO buy an 18" pizza to get a 14" cheese pizza. This makes NO sense. The server then pointed to the napkin holder, where the flier advertised "2 for Tuesday. Buy any 18" pizza and receive any 14" pizza for free." So if I look at one sign, I can order a 14" supreme and get a 14" cheese for free, and if I look at the other one, I can buy an 18" supreme and get a 14" supreme for free. NO WHERE on ANYTHING printed in the restaurant was there any mention of "Buy an 18" and you get a 14" cheese. We asked to speak to the manager, who was incredibly curt, and would not explain the discrepancy, nor move on his "policy". It seemed like a made up gimmick to make some extra money, and I could not shake the feeling that the staff was simply manipulating us.
The pizza was descent, but not for the price. It's incredibly expensive for what you get. I'll never go back... I'm more than happy to give The Pie my business. Plus, at the Pie, I've never felt like the company was being manipulative or dishonest.

 

REPLY TO THIS COMMENT
Posted // April 8,2011 at 17:14

i went in to NYPD layton last thursday night march 31st and had the worst service i have ever had in my entire life my server was a girl i wont say her name but she had short blonde and brown hair.(she looked like she was on something) she was straight up bitchy so to say but she was, and she came over got our drinks brought them back to us then went and talked to her girl manager for quite a while. finally after 15 minutes she walked over to take our order. she put it in then went back to talking 20-30 minutes go buy we havent got our pizza yet and then here she comes with it. we were gonna ask for a manager but she looked to dumb to understand what was going on. so we asked for our check and that took another 15 minutes she brought it over and forgot to take the discount off honestly i was about ready to walk out. she brought it back we gave her our card she swiped it by out table and left the screen up so that every one could see the last 4 digits of my husbands credit card. i will never go back there if that manager i guess her name was shan cuz thats what everybody kept yelling and that server is there . good luck layton hope you guys figure it out be for its to late. i wish someone from there management wise would email me so i can tell them. .

 

REPLY TO THIS COMMENT
Posted // July 16,2010 at 09:32

PS: I was referring to 114th S Toscano

 

Posted // August 2,2010 at 16:00 - I find it funny the article refers to the settebello's having the right amount of toppings, never to much. I have been to both settebello's and toscano. Settebellos' the crust comes out soggy half the time, and you can't pick it up. But that is the style of pizza. As far as Toscano goes, it's American style pizzas, cooked like the Italians do. As far as comparing anything to Nevoli's setting it off on the wrong foot because its not the same style of pizza. yes everyone has their preferences, but its places like that, that went out of business for a reason. As far as Arella's it is a decent pizza that has plenty of toppings as well, again, it is different from Settebellos' why are they being compared? It is italian style pizza with American style mind. As far as NYPD I have no saving graces, for that place.

 

REPLY TO THIS COMMENT
Posted // July 16,2010 at 09:30

One of us didn't mind the thin crust and the scarce toppings, the other was severely let down.. If you want a REAL pizza, where you don't have to eat the WHOLE thing to yourself to be filled up, for 10$, then go elsewhere for pizza.

 

REPLY TO THIS COMMENT
Posted // July 12,2010 at 16:59

I live out in west valley and refuse to go anywhere else for pizza/wings and beer. everytime i have gone in for food, i have been greeted at the door "welcome to NYPD pizza, go ahead and sit where ever you like". which was okay. i gotta choose where i sit. within a couple minutes i had my drink and my appitizer. the serves has always been good. i might even apply for a job there

 

 
 
 
Close
Close
Close